Versace’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection had all the sensuality we’ve come to expect from the design house.  Strategic cut-outs and thigh-high slits were the recurring theme on this runway.  Even the boots had cleavage.  The color palette consisted of sunshine yellow, lovely lavendar, pristine white, cobalt blue and chocolate brown; it was was pleasing to the eyes, and will be a welcomed sight come fall.  There was even a touch of metallic in bronze and silver to bring shine to the collection.  Versace was not only about sensuality this season, it brought innovation to the runway.  Some of the wool coats had what appeared to be velour pattern sleeves.  Leather was woven throughout much of the collection, and it was mixed in with fabric to construct jackets and pants that stopped at the ankles.  It was always used for the trim of wool coats, like the cuffs, collars, and sleeves.  The leather bags and shoes completed the use of the material.  I loved that the final two looks resembled armour for battle.  It’s as if Donatella was letting it be known that she is a warrior, a metaphor for he willingness to see Versace through these economic times.

Prada’s Fall 2010 collection was a case of the present revisiting the past for inspiration for the future.  In this instance it was an expedition to the 1950′s, a simpiler time that is often idealized in film and television.   The color palette was very subdued, with tan, aquamarine blue, and black as the predominate hues.   Even the prints were restrained, though beautiful.  There were a couple of instances of an unknown material, it came in a tan skirt and matching jacket, and a black jacket that appeared to be made from a shiny rubber-like or patent leather material.  I loved the look of crinoline under the coats, skirts and dresses; it gave off a rigid and prudish vibe that was perfect for the show.  A few of the dresses had beautiful ruffled details and embellishments.  Some of the looks reminded me of the classic Italian beauty, and Sophia Loren came to mind.  Of course the show included bags, shoes, eyewear that completed the overly demure, but equally sexy looks.  Okay, the boots were not very reserved, they were unabashedly hot.  We now know that the Prada lady will look like a book-worm come fall with a twist of sensuality.  Victoria’s Secret models Alessandra Ambrosio, Doutzen Kroes and Miranda Kerr walked the show, as well as model of the moment, Lara Stone, and they navigated a maze of a runway.

Nathan Jenden’s Fall 2010 collection was a mix of black-and-white zebra stripes, neutral gray, vivid colors and bold prints.  He sent 24 looks down the runway, each filled with drama and personality.  The former creative director of Diane von Furstenberg only used models of color on the catwalk.  Asian inspired hats were showcased throughout the show.  It was a playful collection that will hold a lot of appeal with the youthful and eclectic young woman with a flair for the dramatic.

The opening look at Burberry’s Fall 2010 collection summed up the show in total, a model in a sheer dress, thigh-high boots and of course, a shearling jacket.  There is something intrinsically beautiful about the masculine jacket paired with a romantic sheer dress.  Shearlings ruled Burberry’s runway, and relegated the celebrated trench to a supporting role.  Though the trench may not have been the headliner, they showed they were a timeless classic.  They were updated with a military inspiration; my thought, ‘where do I enlist’?  It was an earthy color palette of olive green, mustard, tan, off-white, and grey with burgundy and navy mixed in.  The ultra sexy thigh-high boots served as a pant-like substitute to some of the barely there hemlines.  At the end of the day, it was a stunning collection with pieces we will all be coveting from now until the fall season.

It appears Matthew Williamson was inspired by ancient Rome, both military and Parliament, for his Fall 2010 collection.  His first looks had the signature Williamson aesthetic.  Somewhere during the middle of the runway show the Roman look appeared, and it was an unexpected surprise.  The fabric and draping were the central players; the collection as a whole came in cobalt blue, gray, pink, mustard and Williamson’s signature prints.  One look at the sheen of the gold and bronze, the one shoulder draping and the shoes, and you will be taken back to Rome in ancient times.  Of course the metallic fabrics were more like the armour of the army.  Think back to Julius Ceasar, Mark Antony and Cleopatra.  The fabric choice was very luxurius and the draping created the visual interest.  Hemlines remained tastefully at mid-thigh, so most women will be able to wear these looks without becoming victims of fashion.

J. Mendel’s Fall 2010 collection was all about luxury, think luxurious mink stoles, jackets and vests.  The furs were divine, and the gowns breath taking with wonderful movement.  All the ruching on the dresses were done to perfection.  It was a youthful collection, and that point was reinforced by the hemlines that fell at mid-thigh.  J. Mendel was one of a few designers who deviated from the longer hemline trend for fall 2010. 

Sequins goes well with fur, just like champagne goes with strawberries, a delicious combination.  The colors ranged from black, brown, forest green, pewter, blue and red to a blue and black print so delicate that it did not overtake the design of the gown.  A presentation was the right setting for this collection because it gave you the ability to view it for an appreciable amount of time.  There was no stodginess in the styling, slouchy mid-calf boots and booties were paired nicely against the glamourous dresses and furs.  J. Mendel will appeal to young Hollywood, and the red dress was a show stopper that will likely be worn by a lucky starlet on Oscar night.

Davidelfin’s Fall 2010 collection had a parochial vibe from beginning to end, but there was nothing provincial about it.  Upon careful inspection, I noticed the red soles on the models’ feet, they were wearing Louboutins.  Even the Gossip Girl crew wouldn’t mind abandoning their designer duds and donning Davidelfin’s runway looks.  As far as the designer is concerned, it will be a very bright fall.  He used yellow, black-and-white plaid with a pop of hot pink.  There were great blazers and mini skirts for the ladies and shorts for the guys.  The sexy school girl look has always been a societal favorite, and these pieces will only enhance it; the designer has even thrown the guys into the mix as well.

My first thought upon seeing Toni Francesc’s Fall 2010 collection was of  Lieutenant Uhura of Star Trek.  Yes, it was futuristic sexy.  The collection had strong structured shoulders, some even angular like the hair.  Visual projections onto the walls completed the sci-fi effect.  All of that could not distract from the beauty of the clothes.   Mini skirts are still on trend as far as Francesc is concerned.  Separates were a big part of this collection like jackets, skirts and pants.  The leggings looked like they came from a dark glistening pool, and most of the fabrics had an iridescent shine.  He used a neutral black, brown and gray color palette that’s usually a staple for fall, but the fabric sheen and silhouette compensated for the absence of color.  The make-up mimicked the colors of the pieces; the models had dark eyes and a shimmery gold mouth.

Tibi’s Fall 2010 collection will give the younger set something to cheer about come fall.  It’s for the 20-something woman on the brink of finding herself a more grown up look without sacrificing youthful style.  The prints give the collection depth, simple solids would have voided the pieces of personality.  In this case, the fabric selection was on par with design.  The texture and unruliness of the hair went perfectly with the prints.  Teal, bronze, black and gray were the background players behind the prints.   Sequins were sprinkled within, along with a touch of  fur and leather.  All-in-all, a fun collection with the right amount of grown-up mixed in. 

Vivid colors and prints took center stage at Thuy’s Fall 2010 runway show, and what a treat.  Midway through the show I found myself coveting fur warmers worn on the models’ arms.  The show took on a very Russian aristocracy vibe back during the days of the Czars.  It was a collection chock full of rich and vibrant colors like true reds, burgundies, gold and bronze to complement luscious prints.  Thuy was a far departure from the usual gray and tan of fall.  The Thuy lady has quite a selection of dresses, skirts and jackets to choose from, and I imagine that’s the way she likes it.  If winter could look more like Thuy’s vision, I would not be so opposed to the blustering cold and early dark days of the season.