Gucci held its spring 2011 menswear runway show in Milan ealier this week.  There were a mixture of suits, casual slacks, blazers, leather jackets and denim in the collection.  The pants were sexy in a slim cut and we saw plenty of shorts, but the accessories stole the show.  Spring 2011 may become known as the season of man bags, and Gucci had a lot of them. 

       New York Fashion Week – Jason Wu Fall 2010

  London Fashion Week – Matthew Williamson Fall 2010

     Milan Fashion Week – Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2010

    Paris Fashion Week – Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2010

After viewing most of the collections from fall 2010, it was easy to spot the array of dark colors.  Of course that was predictable because we are dealing with the colder months.  Last year I had written about the classic little black dress after the fashion weeks were over.  We decided to write about cocktail dresses this year, but with only one condition, the dresses could not be black.  It should go without saying that this was a challenge for the fall season.  The search was a great re-cap of all the collections shown this past month.  There were so many beautiful gowns, but we were looking for cocktail dresses.  Color and and lightness were selected to combat the cold dark days of winter.  These dresses fit the bill perfectly:

Jason Wu’s dress was beautiful in an elegant print.  The model brought the dress to life, and she looked like she could have danced all night.

Matthew Williamson is a favorite of Fashion Rollcall, but this dress was a stand-out in London.  The one-shoulder and draping gave it a beautiful silhouette.

Dolce & Gabbana definitely brought the sexy to this group of dresses.  The designers gave us curves, and so did the city of Milan for fall.

Yves Saint Laurent was an elegant and artistic choice in Paris.  The delicate ruffles surrounding the upper body gave this dress a sophisticated retro look.  That was further enhanced by the long black gloves that extended to the upper-arm.

A funny thing happened in Milan and Paris during fashion month, it became fashionable to cast models with curves on the runway.  Two notable fashion houses took this step, and we applaud them both; the trail blazers were Prada in Milan, and Louis Vuitton in Paris.  The move towards curves have been gaining momentum, with in demand models like Lara Stone being sought after for advertising campaigns and editorials, but it has reached a new high.  Victoria’s Secret’s models were called to the rescue in Milan for Prada’s runway show, along with Lara.  Even their former Angels were called into action in Paris at Louis Vuitton.  It’s too soon to know if this trend will cross-over into Spring 2011.  Let’s not be naive, this was marketing; only the sales numbers will reveal just how brilliant.  We should not focus only on the sales of the clothes, but the accessories too.  Those who approve of this move may vote with their dollars, and purchase a Prada or Vuitton bag over other brands for fall.  Should it be a financial success, we may see other brands make the leap.  Even if this phenomena ends with the Fall 2010 season, it has left a permanent mark on all of us who witnessed the fashion industry embrace womanly bodies.

Versus is the revived diffusion line from Versace, designed by Christopher Kane.  The fall 2010 collection was on fire.  Delicately pleated mini skirts in scarlett red, midnight black and caribbean blue took center stage.  The collection was eerily reminiscent of the 1950′s, even though the skirts were far more modest in their coverage back then.  One look had a cardigan thrown around the shoulders and it further highlighted the 50′s.  Some of the looks reminded me of the cigarette girls at the theater in the 1950′s as well.  Those were the sweeter looks.  Along the way, a darker side emerged in the form of bondage; strips of ribbon made up the upper half of a few dresses.  Black leather gloves reaching the upper arm paired with a black pair of knee-length boots and short black dress cried out dominatrix.  Among my favorite were the graphic T-shirts which were a nice complement to all the skin shown.  Christopher Kane revisited the past and brought back a very sexy future.  The collection makes up with femininity what it lacks in modesty.  There is something inherently sweet about the Versus girl, even as she takes control.  Who wouldn’t want to be a Versus girl come fall?

It was a story of translucent lace and feathers at Gucci’s Fall 2010 runway show.  Sure the design house also showcased their signature looks, you know, that polished put together Gucci girl.  Then those gave way to sheer lace.  They definitely turned up the volume on sexy in this collection.  The first looks were clean monochromatic, almost pristine sportswear.  It had all the luxury we would expect from Gucci.  Silks, wool, leather, and fur were among the first half of the looks.  Those were clearly the daytime looks because they were the polar opposites of the latter looks that got progressively more risque.  During the evening looks the lace, feathers, sequins and embellishments made their debut.  It was like a striptease, but it was a slow and sensual unveiling.  The models started totally covered up, then they shed layers of clothes to reveal more skin.  There should have been a warning label on the lace dresses because they were hot enough make you blush.  The first looks and color palette were very conservative with taupe, gray, brown, concrete, tan, camel and black.   As far as the accessories went, my heart fluttered at first glimpse of the thigh-high suede boots; it was love at first sight.  Other accessories included shoes, bags, belts and sunglasses, and most of those will be on many ‘must have’ lists come fall.

Versace’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection had all the sensuality we’ve come to expect from the design house.  Strategic cut-outs and thigh-high slits were the recurring theme on this runway.  Even the boots had cleavage.  The color palette consisted of sunshine yellow, lovely lavendar, pristine white, cobalt blue and chocolate brown; it was was pleasing to the eyes, and will be a welcomed sight come fall.  There was even a touch of metallic in bronze and silver to bring shine to the collection.  Versace was not only about sensuality this season, it brought innovation to the runway.  Some of the wool coats had what appeared to be velour pattern sleeves.  Leather was woven throughout much of the collection, and it was mixed in with fabric to construct jackets and pants that stopped at the ankles.  It was always used for the trim of wool coats, like the cuffs, collars, and sleeves.  The leather bags and shoes completed the use of the material.  I loved that the final two looks resembled armour for battle.  It’s as if Donatella was letting it be known that she is a warrior, a metaphor for he willingness to see Versace through these economic times.

Prada’s Fall 2010 collection was a case of the present revisiting the past for inspiration for the future.  In this instance it was an expedition to the 1950′s, a simpiler time that is often idealized in film and television.   The color palette was very subdued, with tan, aquamarine blue, and black as the predominate hues.   Even the prints were restrained, though beautiful.  There were a couple of instances of an unknown material, it came in a tan skirt and matching jacket, and a black jacket that appeared to be made from a shiny rubber-like or patent leather material.  I loved the look of crinoline under the coats, skirts and dresses; it gave off a rigid and prudish vibe that was perfect for the show.  A few of the dresses had beautiful ruffled details and embellishments.  Some of the looks reminded me of the classic Italian beauty, and Sophia Loren came to mind.  Of course the show included bags, shoes, eyewear that completed the overly demure, but equally sexy looks.  Okay, the boots were not very reserved, they were unabashedly hot.  We now know that the Prada lady will look like a book-worm come fall with a twist of sensuality.  Victoria’s Secret models Alessandra Ambrosio, Doutzen Kroes and Miranda Kerr walked the show, as well as model of the moment, Lara Stone, and they navigated a maze of a runway.

Karate was the inspiration for the spring 2010 collection at Bottega Veneta.  The casual ease is evident in the pieces.  I know that we throw the word ‘chic’ around quite casually during these fashion weeks, but this collection is the epitome of the word.  A chic woman is effortless in her style; it appears as if she just threw something on, but her fantastic style always comes through.   The shapes were so beautiful, and the colors ranged from the purest white to the rich and saturated burgundy.  The Bottega Veneta woman will be very sophisticated come spring.

The Alberta Ferretti runway show was heavenly.  The fabrics were sheer and the dresses were ultra feminine.  It was a beautiful collection done in the prettiest neutrals.  There were sufficient prints and patterns to keep the collection interesting.  All in all it was  very cohesive, and each piece related to the other perfectly.  The Alberta Ferretti woman will be very lady-like and refined come spring time.  Some of the pieces along with hair and make-up reminded me of Grace Kelly, especially this look.  The collection was one of the more grown up collection I’ve seen this season, and it should be applauded.  Prior to the start of the fashion weeks, I thought I wanted to see tons of color, but a well thought out and executed collection has put that to rest.  Click here to view the entire collection.

The collection was classic Armani with a twist, beautiful vibrant colors with a fresh and youthful spin.  He threw in hues of blues, greens and pinks.   One could easily see Rihanna in many of the pieces in the collection, including this look.  I definitely got the feeling of a more relaxed Armani, and it was wonderful.  It’s as though Mr. Armani has declared an end to the recession, and decided it was now a time for celebration.  He offfered several alternatives in dresses and tops, from the one shoulder, the strapless, to the deep plunging V.  Oh, did I mention the accessories?  They were sparkly and fun like many of the pieces in the collection.  I’m so loving the flats for spring, it’s almost as if the designers have read our minds.  We want chic served with a side of comfort.