Angelina Jolie continues her reign on the red carpet.  She was lovely in Pamella Roland at Salt’s premiere in Paris.  The dress was very sophisticated, and had an iridescent shine; her hair and make-up were equally elegant.  The shimmering lame fabric gave the dress much needed glamour for the evening, this was a grown-up dress.  It was ivory, almost pearlized with an open faux wrap front.  It was simple, with beautiful details like the different shoulder straps, one was an unexpectedly thinner double strap.  The dress complemented Jolie’s tall and thin frame; her late Parisian mother would have been proud.

Sparkle, sequins and gold dominated Elie Saab’s Couture Fall 2010 collection.  The gowns floated down the runway in beautiful fall colors of red, gold, taupe, seafoam green and a print so lovely it brings to mind the frescoes in Italy.  We saw draping, beading and oragami pleating that was simply breathtaking on the breezy silk chiffon.  Saab opted for full on glamour and opulence with his fabric selection.  Only the construction and careful attention to details rivaled those choices.  The collection is reminiscent of the fashion from the television series in the 1980′s, Dynasty, but it’s the updated version for the 21st century. 

Kate Moss graced the cover of Paris Vogue for its June/July 2010 issue.  The cover was shot by fashion photographer Mario Testino.  She gives us her best pin-up girl look with her gold corseted swimsuit, wind-swept curls and pouty red lips.  There’s a vulnerability about the supermodel in this shot, she gazes into the camera as if she’s stranded on a deserted beach.  Kate channels pure glamour as she sits in the sand surrounded  by a vast blue ocean.  The veteran shows us why she is still a force in this industry.

There is talk that American designer Zac Posen may show his Spring 2011 collection in Paris.  It’s been reported by WWD that he takes issue with his time slot for New York Fashion Week in September.  Posen said no decision has been finalized, but he believes “doing a fashion show in New York with today’s climate, is difficult.”  He goes on to say he wants to go to Paris “where they understand my clothes.”  The rumor is reminiscent of when Marc Jacobs considered leaving for Paris a few seasons back.  Hopefully Posen and the CFDA will work out this matter and New York will keep this talented designer.

Zac Posen to Show in Paris? [Elle UK]

Some of Hollywood’s leading actresses have graced the cover of Vogue Paris for the May issue.  They are some of the best actresses working right now, Penelope Cruz, Gwyneth Paltrow, Meryl Streep, Naomi Watts, Kate Winslet and Julianne Moore.  These ladies prove that talent and beauty are an unbeatable combination.  The black-and-white photography gives the cover a classic and nostalgic feel, while the Gap attire says they are all confident and modern women.  Make no mistake, this is not Old Hollywood, these ladies are powerhouses in both their craft and in their own right. 

       New York Fashion Week – Jason Wu Fall 2010

  London Fashion Week – Matthew Williamson Fall 2010

     Milan Fashion Week – Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2010

    Paris Fashion Week – Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2010

After viewing most of the collections from fall 2010, it was easy to spot the array of dark colors.  Of course that was predictable because we are dealing with the colder months.  Last year I had written about the classic little black dress after the fashion weeks were over.  We decided to write about cocktail dresses this year, but with only one condition, the dresses could not be black.  It should go without saying that this was a challenge for the fall season.  The search was a great re-cap of all the collections shown this past month.  There were so many beautiful gowns, but we were looking for cocktail dresses.  Color and and lightness were selected to combat the cold dark days of winter.  These dresses fit the bill perfectly:

Jason Wu’s dress was beautiful in an elegant print.  The model brought the dress to life, and she looked like she could have danced all night.

Matthew Williamson is a favorite of Fashion Rollcall, but this dress was a stand-out in London.  The one-shoulder and draping gave it a beautiful silhouette.

Dolce & Gabbana definitely brought the sexy to this group of dresses.  The designers gave us curves, and so did the city of Milan for fall.

Yves Saint Laurent was an elegant and artistic choice in Paris.  The delicate ruffles surrounding the upper body gave this dress a sophisticated retro look.  That was further enhanced by the long black gloves that extended to the upper-arm.

A funny thing happened in Milan and Paris during fashion month, it became fashionable to cast models with curves on the runway.  Two notable fashion houses took this step, and we applaud them both; the trail blazers were Prada in Milan, and Louis Vuitton in Paris.  The move towards curves have been gaining momentum, with in demand models like Lara Stone being sought after for advertising campaigns and editorials, but it has reached a new high.  Victoria’s Secret’s models were called to the rescue in Milan for Prada’s runway show, along with Lara.  Even their former Angels were called into action in Paris at Louis Vuitton.  It’s too soon to know if this trend will cross-over into Spring 2011.  Let’s not be naive, this was marketing; only the sales numbers will reveal just how brilliant.  We should not focus only on the sales of the clothes, but the accessories too.  Those who approve of this move may vote with their dollars, and purchase a Prada or Vuitton bag over other brands for fall.  Should it be a financial success, we may see other brands make the leap.  Even if this phenomena ends with the Fall 2010 season, it has left a permanent mark on all of us who witnessed the fashion industry embrace womanly bodies.

Chloe’s Fall 2010 collection was a nostalgic visit to the 1980′s with all the sensibilities of the 21st Century.  The collection reminded me of Catherine Deneuve and Jacqueline Bisset, these women personified sophistication in the ’80′s.  Chloe gave us sophistication, and so much more.  Luxury took center stage; the fabrics were so rich and plush, I could easily imagine the feel of them against my skin.  Each pant was cut perfectly, and thus had an amazing fit.  Several jumpsuits came down that catwalk in knits and silks, and a couple had me rethinking my stance on that one piece wonder.  The eighties were the height of power dressing for women, and Hannah MacGibbon has restored its luster.  There was a sea of neutrals, camel, tan, taupe, gray, beige and brown, but each piece was extremely strong.  One of my favorite looks was the brown leather pant and brown blouse with a bow, it was powerful yet sexy.

Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2010 runway show was a reunion of the supermodels in Paris.  Laetitia Casta, Bar Refaeli, Adriana Lima and Elle Macpherson walked the runway, and they looked fantastic.  Curves were in fashion this season in Paris.  These clothes were made to fit the bodies of real women; they had a grown-up femininity about them, nothing girlish.  We could have been transported back into the 1950′s with the longer hemlines, beautiful coats and elbow length gloves.  Yes, the 1950′s in Paris or was it Italy?  The fountain in the middle of the runway was the perfect backdrop.  Romance was in the air, and in the pieces.  Lovely plaids and prints were in abundance in fall colors.  The music was dramatic, and the scene cinematic; we were at the movies.  It was not all about the supermodels and scenery though, nothing could take away from those gorgeous shoes and bags.  The accessories were befitting of the Vuitton name.  Flats played a large role in the show, and the collection still managed to maintain its sensuality.  The bags were the jewels displayed in all their majesty, and they will be the best friends to every Louis Vuitton woman in the fall. 

Celine brought chic and luxury to the runway with its Autumn/Winter 2010 collection.  Phoebe Philo created pieces that every young professional woman will yearn for come fall.  The color palette was simple and clean; black, white, cream, and camel, but that was where the simplicity ended.  It was elegant and modern without the harsh lines.  Leather  was featured heavily, but it was soft and appeared to have movement.  The use of lace and silk brought a vulnerability that would have been missing around all the leather and modern shapes.  It was not an overly conservative collection, several of the blouses were updated with tails, and some of the sweaters were sprinkled with sequins.   Celine proves that beautifully made clothes can rival mini skirts and skin any day of the week.