The Givenchy couture collection will be the choice of a new generation of couture connoissieurs.  There was  no predictability here, only modern and timely pieces.  Its youthful vibrancy was a break from the more expected couture aesthetic.  For these reasons, Givenchy made our Rollcall list during Couture Week.  The collection boasted wonderful shapes, colors and textures.  Black and white, and fleshtones opened the show, then an explosion of color followed; various shades of blues, emerald green and purple lit up the runway.  The next generation does not want to play dress up in there mother’s couture.  They seek to be daring without being gimmicky, and Riccardo Tisci delivered. View the entire collection here.

Elie Saab’s spring 2010 couture collection is perfection.  A parade of stunning gowns came down the runway in the palest blue, lavender, yellow and flesh tones.  They ranged from the ethereal to the tulle lined confections with exquisite detailing.  The neutral color palette lends a sophistication to an already elegant collection.  Some of the gowns floated down the runway as if they were ready to take flight.  Beautiful lace, lovely appliques and seemingly translucent fabric permeated the spring collection.  Oh, and the beaded gowns are definitely ready for their red carpet close-up.  View the entire collection here.

Karl Lagerfeld does it again with his Chanel couture spring 2010 collection.  Each dress was more beautiful than the next in the finest fabrics adorned with embellishments that must have taken tens to hundreds of hours to complete.  The collection was a lesson in refinement.  Chanel brought regal glamour to couture week in all its majesty.  These pieces are fit for royalty, and rightfully so because couture is priced accordingly.  Don’t worry we could always desire them from afar.  Besides, beauty can be appreciated by all.  Click here to view the entire collection.

Martin Margiela Spring 2009

Martin Margiela has made his final curtain call at the house of Margiela.  It comes as no surprise because the rumors have been rampant about his impending exit for over a year.  He leaves his fashion house after 20 years and there are no plans to replace him.  Margiela will now have a creative staff instead of one creative head; this team benefits from the designer’s creative nurturing over the years.  Only time will tell if this new effort will be successful.  So far the last applauded collection at the fashion house was the elusive designer’s ‘backwards’ collection in spring 2009; both the fall 2009 and spring 2010 collections received luke-warm receptions.  It is believed that Martin Margiela did not have a hand in either collection.  Can a group be as successful at communicating a cohesive vision as one creative leader? That remains to be seen and we’ll be watching.

Karl Lagerfeld has directed a new short film starring Edita Vilkeviciute as a young Coco Chanel.  The backdrop of the film is Shanghai; a bit of an homage to Chanel’s Pre-Fall 2010 collection aptly named Paris-Shanghai.  In keeping with the name, the collection took its inspiration from the city in China with beautiful coats, embellished dresses and accessories.  Most notable among the accessories are the hats which are authentic in shape and embellished with beadings and other appliques.  Paris-Shanghai made our Rollcall list this week.  The presentation is 22-minutes in length, watch and enjoy.

Part 1

 Part 2

 Part 3

The ‘Sonia Rykiel Pour H&M’ event will take place in Paris on December 1st.  Preparations for the launch have been underway for over week, and the excitement is palpable.

Fantasy-land is the party theme, a “fairy tale for grown-ups,” says Etienne Russo, the fashion event planner at H&M.  Sonia Rykiel and H&M’s collaboration is being celebrated with a grand Parisiene event at the Grand Palais.  There will be floats to transport the models, and giant bunnies, ducks and balloon trees on hand to complete the fantasy. 

All of this will culminate in the official launch on December 5th, that’s when the lingerie collection hits stores.  The collection will also be sold in Sonia Rykiel’s boutiques.  Pretty and feminine accurately describes the lingerie, which are the hallmark traits of Sonia Rykiel.

The winter 2009 collection is just the first collaboration between Sonia Rykiel and H&M; the second collection due out in spring 2010.  You’ll be treated then to a knitwear and accessories collection.  Until then, enjoy the lingerie for the holidays.

Lady Gaga does it once again, she manages to titillate in her “Bad Romance” video.  The video has a very futuristic vibe, and not surprisingly, Alexander McQueen’s spring 2010 collection is sprinkled throughout.  The opening scene showcases one of McQueen’s metallic gold looks for spring.  His shoes are also prominently featured, and rightfully so, they’ve been the talk of Paris Fashion Week and beyond.  Watch with caution though, you might find yourself caught in the madness of Lady Gaga, and love it.

Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 2010 collection was youthful with a touch of sweetness.  Ladies, the mini dress is back, and was well represented in this collection.  I loved the mix of the strong shoulders with the femininity of the shorter dress lengths.  The leather details on the upper portions of the dresses looked more like metal plates than leather.  Mr. Lagerfeld’s collection is not for the wallflower who wants to go unnoticed; it’s says ‘the party can start now because I have arrived’.  These dresses are for the rock star types, the ones who are most comfortable in their own skin.  His loyal clientele will be eager to get her hands on these dresses because they are fun, light and flirty.  They’re perfect for spring.

It was a tale of two Paris, and now that the shows are over, fashion critics and journalist are asking, ‘does sex sell’?  The easy answer is a resounding, ‘yes’, but it’s a little more complicated than that.  Sex does sell, but who’s buying it?  There were some very sexy collections in Paris this season, but the shows that gripped the fashion world most were the ones where we were offered innovation and fully clothed models.  Of course Alexander McQueen’s show comes to mind with a look to the future, so does Louis Vuitton.  Both streamed their shows live and opened up this seemingly secret world to everyone.  Karl Lagerfeld even got Chanel into the act with a theme of farm and hay as the backdrop against the refined and polished looks of that house.  Contrasting the collection with the scenery made the clothes pop out.  The sexier collections used the clothes to do what McQueen and Vuitton used technology to do, get us talking.  Let’s face it, one of the purposes for the fashion weeks is to generate buzz.  Did this strategy work?  Maybe the sexier houses were betting that women wanted a change; that gamble would not have been too far fetched, but was translucent clothing the solution?  Dior and Giles Deacon took a calculated risk, but only time and sales will tell the full story.  For now, the strategy has proved itself effective because we are still talking about them.

At Paris Shows, Designers Hope That Sexy Sells [WSJ]

What Professional Woman Wants to Wear Lingerie As Clothing? [The Cut]

Marc Jacob does it again for Louis Vuitton.  He designed pieces that every Vuitton girl will covet.  Separates ruled this runway.  There were tons of shorts and mini skirts in various lengths to match a girl’s mood.  The collection was a mix of lilac, lavendar and coral with the neutral gray, eggplant and black.  Of course he understands that’s how women want to dress; we want the balance of brights with earthy colors.  All those colors were accompanied by sufficient sparkle to enhance the Vuitton girl’s shine upon entrance in a room.  Oh, and did I mention the accessories.  They deserve a separate blog post all of their own.  The bags were scrumptious and the shoes, yummy.  To sum up Louis Vuitton spring 2010 runway this season, it was a sea of afros and must have pieces along side fabulous accessories.  Click here to view the video on Facebook or view the video below and see for yourself.