The First Lady was the subject of our Rollcall list yesterday in Michelle Obama’s Overseas Style.  Her fashion choices while on the world stage have been the talk of the town over the last two weeks.  The three selected looks were:

• A. Azzedine Alaia- Black dress at NATO Dinner;
• B. Junya Watanabe/Jason Wu- Teal sweater and dress at school in London; and
• C. Thakoon- Fuchsia dress in Germany.

All of these looks elicited much conversation and debate.  The two to move on to the Showdown are the Azzedine Alaia black dress worn at the NATO dinner, and the Junya Watanabe/Jason Wu teal cardigan and dress combination. 

The winner of this Showdown is the Junya Watanabe/Jason Wu look.  Many people had a visceral reaction to the sweater.  They either praised it or panned it, but it was the perfect choice for a visit to a school of young girls.  She was warm and approachable, and her style of dress conveyed that as well.  Mrs. Obama was so relaxed and self assured at the school that she won us over.  Take another view of Michelle Obama in that much talked about teal sweater and dress combination at Shop Talk and you will see why this is a Showdown favorite.

European retailers have been migrating to America lately.  Fashion Rollcall selected the three top fashion retailers to cross the Pond in 2009.  They are:

• A. Balenciaga
• B. Hermes
• C. Topshop

Today Balenciaga and Topshop moved on to round two in the Showdown. Both retailers opened their first outlet/store in the United States on the same day.

Many lined the streets of Manhattan waiting patiently to enter Topshop on opening day.  The night before the opening a star studded event was held.  You may view photos from the preview party at Fashionologie.

Many came out to see Kate Moss; her line is a best seller at the retail chain.  Here is a slideshow of Kate Moss’ Topshop line from the The Cut.

Topshop appears to be priced correctly; most items are under a thousand dollars.  The right pricing strategy during a time of economic uncertainty is your best bet.  Retailers have to be more in step with the economic realities. [On the Runway, Cathy Horyn]

The Balenciaga outlet opened with a little less fanfare than Topshop.  Though the opening may not have been as lavish, it does not lessen the excitement and anticipation for the goods that will be sold.

The dramatic silhouettes of Balenciaga will be sought after by many American women.  Balenciaga at a 40 percent discount is a dream for many.

Topshop is the winner in this retail round.  There is a palpable excitement for the opening of this store.  Few things can beat lovely pieces that are reasonably priced.  Take a look at the video from the Associated Press of the Topshop opening in Soho.

Fashion Rollcall selected three celebrity fashion designers to make its Rollcall list.  The three selected were:

• A. L.a.m.b- Gwen Stefani
• B. Victoria Beckham- Victoria Beckham
• C. William Rast- Justin Timberlake

Victoria Beckham launched her dress collection in 2008, and made her fall 2009 New York Fashion Week debut in February.  She introduced a 16-piece collection that goes up to a size 10.   The dress collection has been sold to Bergdorf Goodman. 

You can easily see Beckham herself wearing any of these designs.  She has definitely bottled the Victoria Beckham style.  Prior to this collection she had her VB denim collection, but her venture into fashion designing started with a small line of jeans with Rock & Republic. 

Gwen Stefani has been widely received for her L.a.m.b collection.  Celebrities often wore this line, along with Stefani herself.  She even created the Harajuku line, a less expensive line for her fans and the general public.  The line embodies Stefani’s style and essence.  That would explain its appeal. She began in 2004 with handbag and accessories and evolved into a clothing line, and it appears she is still going strong

Justin Timberlake co-founded the William Rast line along with Trace Alaya.  William Rast made its New York Fashion Week Spring 2009 debut last month.  It is a laid back collection with a bit of an edge; the line mainly consists of denim, leather and tee-shirts.  Timberlake is expected be on Oprah today to promote his line.

A common theme that these celebrity fashion designers have is that they design clothing for themselves.  They are capitalizing on their celebrity, not just in name, but in style.

Two of these celebrity fashion designers have moved on to the Showdown.  They are L.a.m.b by Gwen Stefani and William Rast with Justin Timberlake. 

The winner is William Rast by Justin Timberlake.  His collection is in-tune with his demographic; they are the younger urban set who wants to look cool without trying too hard. [NYMag.com, WWD]

Models were featured on the Rollcall list yesterday.   Three were selected for their influence and extensive presence on the runways of the major fashion capitals.  They are:

• A. Chanel Iman
• B. Lily Donaldson
• C. Raquel Zimmermann

Chanel Iman glided down the runway with legs that appeared endless.  Lily Donaldson bewitched and hypnotized with those piercing blue eyes.  Raquel Zimmermann brought electricity to the catwalk that is visible even in photographs. 

The Showdown contenders are Lily Donaldson and Raquel Zimmermann.   They owned the runways of New York, Milan and Paris this season.  We will be watching to see if they continue their rule.

Our winner is Lily Donaldson; she dominated the runways this season.  Lily Donaldson walked in all the shows that won the Showdown of their respective Fashion Week, Donna Karan, Versace and Christian Dior.  Her look and intensity is a lethal combination.

The fashion community was treated to several weeks of the most innovative designers in the world.  New York, London, Milan and Paris showcased collections that rivaled their own prior success.  Each city gave us magnificent trends to follow for fall 2009.

In New York, our Showdown winner Donna Karan brought us a wealth of accessories.  She reminded us of the importance of the belt in updating and pulling a look together.  Donna Karan also previewed the role of the bold necklace on the runway for fall.

Milan’s Showdown winner was Gucci.  Gucci dazzled us with the glitz and glamour of its dresses. Milan sparkled, and the rest of the world smiled.  The festive mood in Milan is mercifully contagious.

Christian Dior was the Showdown winner in Paris.  Dior wowed us with a collection of beautiful coats and suits; all in rich luxurious fabrics and textures.  The dresses were made of the sheerest fabrics; fabrics that were as bright and colorful as a bag full of jelly beans, and possibly just as delicious.

So ladies, your fall 2009 wardrobe will consist of:

• A. Fabulous accessories, textured belts and bold necklaces;
• B. Sequin party dresses and tops; and
• C. Stunning coats and suits in fantastic prints and textures.

It is always lovely in the fall, and these collections will make it just a little lovelier.  All of the listed collections may be viewed at New York Magazine.

Rollcall selected the best of Paris Fashion Week Fall 2009 on Thursday.  The collections may be viewed at New York Magazine.  The selected fashion houses are:

• A. Christian Dior
• B. Christian Lacroix
• C. Lanvin

Christian Dior presented a dazzling collection; it had all the splendor of the roaring twenties. The twenties-inspired show was a movie siren’s dream come to life.  Dior’s  gowns were light and heavenly; John Galliano superbly captured all the glamour of old Hollywood. 

It had everything, from an array of colors well representing the rainbow, to paisley prints in the sheerest of fabrics.  Then you had the shoes, the shoes needed a show of their own.  They caused one to do a double and triple take. 

Christian Lacroix started with beautifully made coats accompanied by lovely accessories.  The skill of this artisan is evident in each piece, and nowhere is it more evident than in a printed brocade coat with pouffy upper sleeves, fitted waist and A-line skirt. 

His looks were perfectly tailored, soft and feminine.  Lace permeated the collection. The jersey dresses were draped so expertly that they appeared deceptively simple.  Lacroix’ prints were cheerful and bright, just what is needed for fall 2009. 

The Lanvin show was divine.  Alber Elbaz has earned the right to be called the master of draping and origami. 

The first look drew you in, and you were enraptured.  His technique leaves you speechless.   Elbaz manipulates fabric with the utmost skill.  The industrial runway site only highlighted his exquisite collection.

Christian Dior and Lanvin made it to the Showdown.  They were the shining stars of Paris Fashion Week 2009.

The winner is Christian Dior.  John Galliano continues to take Christian Dior to greater heights.

Milan Fashion Week Fall 2009 is over, and we have a Showdown winner. Each collection can be seen at HarpersBazaar.com.  The three fashion houses selected in Rollcall were:

• A. D&G
• B. Gucci
• C. Moschino

D&G brought us a regal inspired collection with a touch of the Victorian.  There were lavish jewel-toned colors like burgundy, blue and yellow.  These colors were a welcomed change in a sea of black, gray and tan collections.  The shape and volume of the dresses were an unexpected delight.  Poet blouses and billowy skirts added to the romanticism of the collection.

The House of Gucci broke free of the down economy; it was a wonderful break from reality.  We saw beautifully-made pant suits, and stunning sequin dresses.  Sparkle, sheen and shine were center stage, they are always indicative of festivities.  The leggings were also shimmery and desirable.  The Gucci collection was one of celebration. 

There was a retro fifties vibe at Moschino, red lips included.  The navy and black pieces paired with red lips were a striking contrast.  The severe hair only highlighted this lady-like collection.  Moschino channeled the glamorous looks of the fifties into the twenty-first century.  Overall this was a sophisticated collection.

The Showdown finalists are D&G and Gucci.  The two collections embodied youth and hope, they offered something to anticipate. 

The winner is Gucci.  Frida Giannini’s take on the future is gladly received.

Three fashion designers were selected for Rollcall yesterday, and two moved on to Showdown.  Please see the collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week .  The three selected were:

• A. Calvin Klein
• B. Vivienne Tam
• C. Yeohlee

Calvin Klein’s spring 2009 collection was simultaneously reserved and explosive.  The neutral color palette and the architectural and origami forms made this an unforgettable collection.

Vivienne Tam produced a soft and feminine spring collection.  The details and embellishments were center stage.  The ruching, trimming, appliqués and delicate pleating made this collection stand out.

Yeohlee’s spring collection was youthful, light and fresh.  It was cohesive in shapes and its neutral color palette.   Her Collection was pleasing to the eye.

The two to move on to Showdown are Calvin Klein and Vivienne Tam.  Each took two distinct routes this season, one strong and structural, the other soft and romantic.  Both collections will be sought after this season.

Calvin Klein, however, won this Showdown.  It was Francisco Costa at his best.  The workmanship was impeccable; the clean modern lines were done with great precision.  Congratulations!

Yesterday I named the three fashion designers who made the Rollcall list.  To recap, the designers are:

• A. Donna Karan
• B. Michael Kors
• C. Jason Wu

Each has their own unique style.   Donna Karan reigns supreme with her incredible draping.  Michael Kors is a Master of the classic All-American look.  Jason Wu, a Prince who makes beautiful gowns fit for a ball.  All three are deserving of the first spot, but only one can win.

The analysis to choose the winner was ‘objectively subjective’, fashion will never be totally objective.  It’s about personal style and preference.

Often times your reaction to a collection comes from an emotional place.  You see it and for a moment your analytical skills are suspended.   Sometimes the most simplistic thoughts come to mind, like ‘pretty’.  It’s like getting a brain freeze upon seeing something beautiful.  Rationality usually returns within moments, but it’s often touch-and-go for a while.  The first few looks set the tone.

The Showdown contenders turned out to be the veterans, Donna Karan and Michael Kors.   It may not be so easy to remove the well-established designers from the throne.  Please view the fall 2009 collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

The winner is:

Donna Karan.  The intricacies of her cut, draping and sculpted shapes were that of an artist, that gave her the edge and the win.  Congratulations!