Martin Margiela Spring 2009

Martin Margiela has made his final curtain call at the house of Margiela.  It comes as no surprise because the rumors have been rampant about his impending exit for over a year.  He leaves his fashion house after 20 years and there are no plans to replace him.  Margiela will now have a creative staff instead of one creative head; this team benefits from the designer’s creative nurturing over the years.  Only time will tell if this new effort will be successful.  So far the last applauded collection at the fashion house was the elusive designer’s ‘backwards’ collection in spring 2009; both the fall 2009 and spring 2010 collections received luke-warm receptions.  It is believed that Martin Margiela did not have a hand in either collection.  Can a group be as successful at communicating a cohesive vision as one creative leader? That remains to be seen and we’ll be watching.

What’s better than a fashion designer who creates a beautiful collection?  I would say one who loves basketball too.  Designer Pamella Roland has got that combination down.  Ms. Roland has been inspired by the Orlando Magic and their winning ways, and brought that inspiration to her spring 2009 collection.  The collection includes cocktail dresses, evening gowns and separates all in that beautiful ‘Magic Blue’.  The ocean blue color is mesmerizing, and the looks are fluid, yet strong.  It appears that both Pamella Roland and the Orlando Magic are having a stellar season.

The vibrant colors and flattering silhouette of this dress caught my eye; it’s ladylike without being too formal.  The lime green and lemon yellow sherbert print dress is perfect for summer, and is from the spring/summer 2009 collection of new designer Rafael Cennamo.  The Miami-based designer is known for his signature of bold colors and luxurious fabrics, all in his usual dramatic fashion.  His young and flirty style is most likely influenced by the heat filled days and nights in Miami.

Thankfully this spring is all about color, color and more color.  Nothing beats beautiful vibrant colors to breathe new life into your wardrobe.  Use accessories to be on trend and to update your closet.  The right bag, belt and sandals in vivid orange, pink or yellow will brighten up your look and your mood.  Take some inspiration from this ELLE video.  You will be ripe with anticipation for the warmer days of spring.

Apparently the British and the French are coming.  Well, they are already here.  Fashion Rollcall has selected the top three European fashion houses/retailers to cross the Atlantic in 2009.  They are:

• A. Balenciaga
• B. Hermes
• C. Topshop

Topshop opened a store in Manhattan today with Kate Moss on hand.  A sizeable crowd welcomed the supermodel and the retail giant. [The Cut]

Woodbury Commons Premium Outlet has a new tenant, Balenciaga.  The Balenciaga outlet store opens today.  They will be offering a 40% discount off the regular retail price. [The Cut]

Another French luxury brand is opening a temporary store in the States, this time in the Hamptons.  Yes, Hermes is opening a 2,000 square foot space that will offer mainly beach attire. [Business of Fashion via WWD]

New York is the beneficiary of these store openings and we are feeling lucky.  Topshop is located in Soho, and both the Balenciaga and Hermes locations are easily accessible from New York City.

There will be a Showdown tomorrow.  Two of these fashion houses will move on, only one will win.  Take some time to view the Hermes video to see what you have to look forward to this summer.

Whew!  It’s spring, nice to see you again.  After all the fall looks for 2009 it is great to look back at the light and cheerful looks for spring 2009.  How great is it to see legs, arms and shoulders again?  Take a look at Charlotte Ronson’s fashion show spring 2009.   

DKNY

The perfect pair of denim jeans, yes we all want one.  The quest for the right pair can be torturous, but well worth it.  Comfort and convenience are factored into the blue jean appeal.  Its ability to be dressed up or dressed down is also very appealing.  

The perfect pair can be slimming while giving your body a great shape.  It is one of those wardrobe essentials that we cannot live without. 

The rise and inseam makes all the difference.  They help in determining the fit, along with the waist size and cut.  To some, the wash is as important as fit.  A darker wash will tend to be more slimming and more formal.

DKNY has teamed up with Levi Jeans to create several styles, a wide leg jean, skinny jean and boyfriend jean.  The boyfriend jean is shown above.  There is enough of a variety here to fit and flatter almost any figure.

To think that the denim jean was once worn for hard labor, thankfully we now wear it for leisure.  One can only wonder how it will evolve in the next 50 years.

Three fashion designers were selected for Rollcall yesterday, and two moved on to Showdown.  Please see the collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week .  The three selected were:

• A. Calvin Klein
• B. Vivienne Tam
• C. Yeohlee

Calvin Klein’s spring 2009 collection was simultaneously reserved and explosive.  The neutral color palette and the architectural and origami forms made this an unforgettable collection.

Vivienne Tam produced a soft and feminine spring collection.  The details and embellishments were center stage.  The ruching, trimming, appliqués and delicate pleating made this collection stand out.

Yeohlee’s spring collection was youthful, light and fresh.  It was cohesive in shapes and its neutral color palette.   Her Collection was pleasing to the eye.

The two to move on to Showdown are Calvin Klein and Vivienne Tam.  Each took two distinct routes this season, one strong and structural, the other soft and romantic.  Both collections will be sought after this season.

Calvin Klein, however, won this Showdown.  It was Francisco Costa at his best.  The workmanship was impeccable; the clean modern lines were done with great precision.  Congratulations!

Spring is almost here, and there should be a song in all of our hearts.  The winter months have been unkind, and should be treated as an uninvited guest who has out-stayed his welcome.

It is cold outside and the darkness of the winter months has done little to improve one’s mood.  The dark colors of the season have only contributed to the feel of the economic crisis. 

Spring is here to rescue us from the dreary dark colors of winter.  The spring 2009 collections are light, optimistic and unconstrained.  The colors are salmon pink, fuchsia, blue and lavender, paired with neutrals, tan, grey, cream or white. 

Rollcall has selected the designers who will lead us out of the deep freeze.   Each is different, but upholds the values of spring 2009.  Please check Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week to view the finalists’ collections.  They are:

• A. Calvin Klein
• B. Vivienne Tam
• C. Yeohlee